Leather Care
How to Spot Luxury Bag Quality. Durable Stitching Explained
How to identify genuinely durable stitching on a luxury leather bag: saddle stitch vs lockstitch, stitches per inch, thread material, and the visual tells.
At a glance
- Saddle stitch uses two needles, so one broken stitch does not unravel the seam.
- Lockstitch is faster and cheaper, but one failure can unravel the whole seam.
- Stitches per inch (SPI) counts the stitches in one inch. Denser stitching is stronger.
- Run a finger along the seam and flex it: no ridges, skips or gaps.
- Our two leather bags are stitched at their stress points. The product pages do not state the stitch type.
Premium Mens Hanging Leather Wash Bag. German Calf £129.99 · Free UK delivery Shop Photo: Jomegat, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Good luxury bag stitching is straight and even, with a smooth seam and no skipped stitches. Check the seams before the leather.
Saddle stitch vs lockstitch
| Saddle stitch | Lockstitch | |
|---|---|---|
| Needles and thread | Two needles and a single thread | A single thread looped through both sides |
| How it is made | Hand-finished and slow | By machine, faster and cheaper |
| If one stitch breaks | Each stitch is independent, so the rest hold | The whole seam can unravel |
| How to spot it | A slightly diagonal angle to each stitch | Straight stitches |
Stitches per inch (SPI)
SPI is the number of stitches in one inch of seam. The denser the stitching, the stronger and more refined the seam.
The visual tests
| Test | What good looks like |
|---|---|
| Run a finger along the seam | Smooth, with no ridges, no skipped stitches and no thread tails poking out |
| Look along the line | Straight, with consistent tension and angle |
| Flex the bag at the seam | The stitches do not gap or strain visibly |
Where to find proper stitching
Our Premium Mens Hanging Leather Wash Bag (£129.99) is stitched at the corners, hook attachment and zip ends. The Vintage Leather Laptop Bag (£189.99) is stitched at the corners, strap attachments and handle base.
The product pages do not state the stitch type, stitch count or thread, so use the tests above on the seams when you receive a bag.
Related reading
Questions answered
What's the difference between saddle stitch and lockstitch? +
Saddle stitch uses two needles and a single thread, and each stitch is independent. If one breaks, the rest hold. It is hand-finished and slow. Lockstitch uses a single thread looped through both sides by machine. It is faster and cheaper, but if one stitch fails the whole seam can unravel.
What does stitches per inch (SPI) mean? +
SPI is the number of stitches in one inch of seam. Denser stitching makes a stronger and more refined seam. This guide gives no tier figures, so judge the seam by how straight and even it is.
Can I tell saddle stitch from lockstitch by looking? +
Look for the slightly diagonal angle of each stitch, which suggests saddle stitch. Run your finger along the seam too. It should feel smooth, with no ridges or skipped stitches.
What stitching do your bags have? +
The Premium Mens Hanging Leather Wash Bag is stitched at the corners, hook attachment and zip ends. The Vintage Leather Laptop Bag is stitched at the corners, strap attachments and handle base. Neither product page states the stitch type, stitch count or thread.
