How to Clean a Leather Bag (Wash Bags, Holdalls and Wallets)

You clean a leather bag with a dry cloth, then a slightly damp cloth, then a little conditioner once it is dry. Test every product on a hidden spot first. Never use heat to dry it.

This guide covers holdalls, wash bags, laptop bags and wallets. It also shows how to clean the inside of a wash bag after a spill.

Know your leather first

The right method depends on the finish. The two common types are pigmented and aniline.

• Pigmented (finished) leather: has a coloured protective coat. It resists liquid better and is easier to care for.
• Aniline (unfinished) leather: has no pigment coat. It absorbs water more readily and shows marks sooner.

Leather Naturally, the leather industry’s consumer body, describes pigmented leather as easy to care for. It says aniline leather needs more care and a patch test, because products may darken it.

Suede and nubuck are different again. They have a soft nap and absorb liquid. Do not use the damp cloth method on them. Use a brush and ask a specialist about stains.

Not sure what you have? Check a hidden spot. If a small drop of water sinks in and darkens the leather, treat it as absorbent and go gently. Our guide to Italian leather vs English leather explains how tanning and origin change the feel and finish.

Patch test before anything else

Test every cleaner and conditioner on a hidden area. The underside of a strap or a hidden seam works well.

Let the spot dry fully. Check for any change in colour. Cambridge Satchel gives the same advice. If the spot looks darker or patchy, stop and use a gentler method.

How to clean a leather bag step by step

At a glance: this takes 20 minutes plus drying time. You need two soft cloths, a soft brush and a leather conditioner.

1. Empty the bag. Shake out crumbs and dust. Check the pockets.
2. Dust the outside. Use a soft dry cloth or a soft brush. Dirt left on the surface scratches leather when you rub it.
3. Wipe the inside. Use a slightly damp cloth on the lining. Leave the bag open to air dry.
4. Dampen a second cloth. It should be damp rather than wet. Wring it out well.
5. Wipe the outside in small sections. Work from top to bottom. Do not rub hard. Leather Naturally warns that rubbing hard on stubborn marks can damage the surface.
6. Use a leather cleaner for heavier dirt. Put it on the cloth, not on the bag. If you have none, a tiny amount of mild soap on a well wrung cloth works on light dirt. Patch test it first.
7. Wipe off residue with a clean damp cloth.
8. Let it dry at room temperature. Stuff the bag with clean paper so it keeps its shape.
9. Wipe the hardware with a dry cloth. Keep cleaner off the leather around zips and buckles.
10. Condition once fully dry. Use a very small amount. Buff it off after 20 minutes.

A big holdall like our brown leather weekend bag is made from top-layer cowhide. Clean it in sections so no panel stays wet for long. Stuff it with paper to hold the shape while it dries.

Leather bag stain table

Act fast. Blot, do not rub. Anything unusual or old is best left to a leather repairer.

Stain	What to do	What not to do
Water mark	Dampen the whole panel evenly with a lightly wet cloth. Let it dry naturally so the mark blends in.	Do not dab only the mark. This leaves a ring.
Oil or grease	Cover with cornflour or baking soda. Leave overnight. Brush it off. Repeat if needed.	Do not use water on an oil stain. It spreads the oil.
Ink	Blot fresh ink at once. Take it to a leather repairer if it has set.	Do not rub it, and do not use household solvents on the mark.
Scuffs	Buff gently with a dry cloth. A little conditioner can blend light scuffs.	Do not use a coloured polish without a patch test. It can change the colour.
Dirt or hand marks	Damp cloth, then dry cloth.	Do not soak the leather.

Cambridge Satchel gives the cornstarch method for grease and the even-dampening method for water marks. Leather Naturally says unusual stains are best taken to professional leather repairers.

Cleaning the inside of a leather wash bag

A leather wash bag takes more punishment than any other bag. Spills, wet sponges and leaking bottles all end up inside it.

Wipe a spill straight away. Use a damp cloth on the lining, then a dry one. Leave the bag open and hang it up so air gets in.

Toothpaste dries to a hard crust. Soften it with a damp cloth and lift it off. Do not scrape it with a blade. Use a damp cotton bud for the seams.

Our Premium Mens Hanging Leather Wash Bag is full-grain German calf with a water-resistant nylon lining that wipes clean. The outer leather is not sealed. Prolonged water will mark it, so keep it away from a wet basin. Our Italian calf wash bag has a water-resistant fabric lining that wipes clean in the same way.

Never leave the bag zipped up damp. Damp, closed bags are where musty smells start.

Mould and damp smells

If you see mould, brush it off dry first. Do this outdoors if you can so the spores do not spread. Then wipe with a barely damp cloth and let the bag air dry in a ventilated room.

Cambridge Satchel warns that trapped moisture causes mould or mildew in storage. It recommends professional help once mould has taken hold. Follow that advice for deep or returning mould.

For a plain damp smell, empty the bag, wipe the lining and leave it open for a day or two. Do not use a heater. Our best leather wash bag guide covers which bags have linings that wipe clean.

How to clean a leather wallet

A leather wallet needs the same method on a smaller scale. Take out all cards and notes first.

Wipe it with a dry cloth. Then use a slightly damp cloth on the outside. Open the card slots and let it dry at room temperature.

Do not soak a wallet. Water gets into the stitching and the edges. Condition it only when it feels dry. A tiny amount is enough.

Conditioning and how often

Leather needs oils to stay supple. Conditioner puts some back. Too much leaves a greasy finish and attracts dust, so use a thin layer.

A simple routine works for most bags:

• Monthly: wipe with a dry or slightly damp cloth.
• Every 3 to 6 months: clean and add a small amount of neutral leather conditioner.
• Always: let the leather dry fully before conditioning.

The distressed top-grain finish on our vintage leather laptop bag suits a monthly damp wipe and conditioning about every six months. Heavy use or dry heating may mean doing it sooner.

Drying and storage

Dry leather at room temperature. Keep it away from radiators, sunlight and hairdryers. Leather Naturally gives the same rule for wet leather.

Store the bag stuffed with paper or tissue so it keeps its shape. Keep it in a cotton dust bag or on a shelf. Plastic traps moisture. Do not hang a heavy bag by its handles.

What to avoid

• Baby wipes. They contain oils and chemicals not made for leather.
• Bleach, ammonia and alcohol. They strip the finish and dry the leather.
• Hairdryers and radiators. Heat dries and cracks leather.
• Soaking the leather. Damp is fine. Wet is not.
• Vinegar and strong detergents. They are not leather products. Leather Naturally advises using leather care products on leather only.
• Rubbing stains. It spreads the mark and wears the surface.
• Plastic bags for storage. They hold moisture against the leather.